Monday, December 29, 2014

Tonsai memorial

It was easy to see that Tonsai has passed its golden days as climbers' paradise. Most seafront restaurants have been burnt down to be replaced by a luxury resort, and at the moment their previous area is a smelling garbage dump. Bungalows and few remaining chillout bars are situated by the main street further inland, where it is possible to imagine Tonsai's old glory.


This used to be seafront bars


But no worries, my stay in Tonsai was saved by the company of two awesome Swiss. It was discovered that Chang beer is the recommended choice for good headaches, mushroom shake makes one operate sharply and push-and-pull top roping is the right climbing technique. Then there were characteristic cats; the tree climbing cat and the stoned cat were our favorites. Also, having a shower can be truly appreciated only after getting completely covered in sweat, sand, chalk and mosquito repellent.





Climbing in Tonsai was contradicting. First I could happily lead flash a 6B and then jump to another 6B right next to it, just to badly fail on it with top rope. Yet still I climbed my first clean 6B+ routes there. Luckily there is CROSSFIT! It enables everything and helps to improve in climbing, approximately by one grade per day.

Yes, I am finish.

Crossfit belaying


Stoned cat

Monday, December 22, 2014

Traveling and/or/versus working

"What the fuck am I doing? I have no home. I have no job. Does that mean I have no future?" Sometimes when I am not busy I stop and think about how confused I am. This is the first time in my life that I have not got a set plan to follow. Sure, the rough plan is to keep on traveling until I find a job somewhere and then make myself a home there. But for how long does it take until I find a job? What and where will it be? Essentially, will I ever even find any satisfying work?

Some people expect me to stop traveling and return to normal life. Without asking from me, they assume I would be happy if I just got another well-paying job, stable property and family. Or maybe they do not really think about my happiness, but conservatively want me to be like everyone else. Usually I am able to ignore upsetting comments if I know they are not valid. This time I cannot entirely do it, though, because I am not hundred percent sure about it.

I have had good conversations with other travelers. In general, they seem more relaxed, joyful and open than normal people. I notice less "what-if" and "then-when" type of thinking but they seek to be happy in present moment. I think less travelers will regret their journeys than normal people will regret not having realized their dreams. It is comforting to know that many others have made the same choice as me and they are doing well. It seems that the longer they have traveled the less troubled they are with similar career pressures to mine.

After all, money matters. Not even the cheapest living traveler can survive without sufficient funds. It seems that most travelers do seasonal jobs, which are easy to get and quit. Academic jobs are different. They have demanding application processes and they are expected to last for years. Organizations employing academic professionals require commitment, so having a long travel gap in my CV might decrease my employment chances.

At this stage, I cannot make such a big decision as to abandon my academic career. I enjoy intellectual challenges and I am too ambitious to stop trying to yet achieve new skills. After quitting my IT job I have done research to figure out what kinds of career profiles exist that might interest me. So far my list of key words is the following: impact sector, developing countries, climate change, economic development, consulting, project management. I have applied to interesting sounding jobs in Europe and Asia, but I fear I cannot beat the touch competition for them.

If I could define the optimal plan, I would travel for a few more months and then start a job in some new country (not Finland). For me the content of the work is more important than its location, so I consider the whole world as my job market. Naturally I do not always get exactly what I plan, but I must be flexible to temporarily adapt to less optimal situations until I can change them for better. Maybe I will get a temporary job to refill my CV for a while, and then go on traveling again.

Anyways, I am getting increasingly motivated to spend quiet days with my computer to write job applications. It gives me a sense of control over my life. "Maybe I have some idea about what I am doing; I am partly aimlessly drifting from one thing to another, partly determinedly building my future. Doubtlessly I am doing the right thing for me."

My Chiang Mai office




White water kayaking at Mae Taeng River

Saturday, December 6, 2014

Adventure climbing

As much as it is possible to call sport climbing adventurous, I think we did a pretty good job on finding some unexploited crags in Northern Thailand. After climbing some days at Crazy Horse Buttress near the tourist-hub city of Chiang Mai, we decided to go in search for new climbing sectors recently bolted by local people. We were supplied with a hand-drawn map of the area, as well as some rough topos, which we soon found out to be quite incorrect. 


My partner-in-crime was Jedy, with whom we used to be colleagues before leaving the company. (Yep, once we even talked about our previous work projects between climbs.) We rented a motorbike and drove up to Chiang Dao, an ordinary small town surrounded by beautiful mountains. Having picked the cheapest guesthouse available, we slept on the floor and were served by its charismatic owner when ever she felt like being serviceable.



Guest house terrace evening view
The climbing sectors are located right next to crop fields, so local farmers helpfully pointed us to paths leading to the cliffs. Had we had machetes to cut off sticky spiky plants from our way, would we have ended up with less scratches and torn pants. However, the stunning scenery and excellent routes made it worth the trip! Having very little information about the rarely climbed routes, Jedy set out to explore them; estimate grades and safety, look out for wasps/spiders/lizards/flying ants (found all of them!), and on one route to drop down a plate-sized stone right next to my head.



Dense approach path


My star moment was climbing my first clean 6B. For the first time at outdoor leading I dared to climb at my true skill level, which was a mental victory for me. I would not have done without Jedy, who kept on encouraging me. Having a reliable and committed belayer has a notable part in successful climbing, as at all times the climber must feel that s/he is there for you. For me it is especially important to build a good relationship with my belayer and take test falls on him/her. Taken that, it is a bit frustrating to keep changing belayers as I travel to new places.

The long and technical 6B route
(Expensive) sparkling wine to celebrate!
One day we were joined by three more friends to hike up to Doi Luang Chiang Dao, which is Thailand's third highest peak at 2225m. We managed to avoid hiring a guide, so we simply followed this clean path revealing us lush views over the mountains, colorful butterflies and rare flowers. It was enjoyable times indeed, and the next day we visited Chiang Dao caves, that form long tunnels with narrow bottlenecks and wide chambers underground. There we got to see animals of darkness, such as pats and spiders.

Pre-hike hotpot dinner



Nap at the top

Buddhist cave decorations



Tuesday, November 25, 2014

Nam Pha Pay Ai

I spent a week at rural Nam Pha Pay Ai camp, in the middle of jungle forests and high cliffs. It was very sympathetic and relaxed; cute little tents for sleeping, hammocks for quiet resting, slacklines and fingerboards for training. The centre of the camp was an open-air lounge, where people gathered for tasty homemade meals and evening hang-arounds. My favorite time there was weekdays, when it was less than ten of us. Everyone got to know each other and the atmosphere was family-like.





Ben, the French founder of the camp, has good ideology. Instead of trying to grow his camp into a commercial money-making source, he prefers to keep it a down-to-earth place for like minded people. Volunteers work in the garden to grow food and help to build and repair things. One morning we opened up a new path through the dense jungle to get to the top of a nearby peak. Ben also gives good thought to climbing route naming, since he hopes that the politically stating names make people to consider issues.

Machete kills


Ben's carefully balanced kern
Quite quickly we climbers developed a set day program. Right after breakfast we took a zip line across a big river to the main crags, where we climbed until lunch. In the afternoons we either returned to climbing or took it easy with slacklining, reading and napping. After it got dark we sat down together to play different card games, which all were named 'Asshole'.

Cool approach to crags
Bat cave
Climbing wise I was left with mixed feelings. Before my departure I had done lots of indoor lead fall practice to get mentally stronger, and it somehow helped also outdoors, where bolts are further apart and wall structures sometimes make falling dangerous. I led all 6As out there and my best climb was a 6A+ onsight. Still I did not dare to climb even near my real skill limit, leaving lots of room for improvement both grade and braveness wise.




I also climbed  a tree!
After having teamed up with the camp people, I felt a bit sad to leave it behind. But that is traveling; you see places and meet people for a while, and then say goodbye in order to go for yet new experiences. I anticipate I will get tired of it at some point, but right now I enjoy it. At home I always do the same things, whereas by traveling I can get as much change as I wish. I know that I will never meet again with most of these people, but I will have learnt different life lessons from them. I believe that spending just a few days in the company of a person with whom you really clique with can be more fruitful than spending months with people you have little in common with. Then in the end, the most significant path-crossings will stay in my memories for a long time.

First Thailand incidents

Moments of terror
Since I had not had time to go to the hairdresser prior to my departure, I decided to get it done on my first day in Bangkok. Trip Advisor suggested a hair salon in Siam Paragon mall, the home of luxury brands, so I went there. Just like normally they bleached the overgrown roots of my blonded hair. As it was being washed off, several hairdressers started talking in concerned voices while they kept putting more stuff onto my hair. Finally they gave me a mirror. I almost cried out when I saw my white and purple hair. It looked awful! In Thailand "loosing your face" in disputes between people is a serious matter, but despite that I could not let them try to fix their mistake. I thanked them and walked out without paying. I went straight to the next hair salon, where a regular Dutch customer assured me that they know how to handle Western people hair. To my relief, my hair got anti-damage treatment and new color. Five hours later I left the mall with a decent hair color and almost 200€ poorer.

Friendly local help
In order to get to my first actual destination, a rural camp North-East from Bangkok, I was supposed to take a train to a small city called Chang Khoi and from there continue on by taxi. After a three-hour-long sweaty trip in an uncomfortable 3rd class car I arrived in town. I had been walking for less than five minutes when I ran into a super helpful and talkative young man, Arni. He told there are no taxis there and he would not suggest a 20km-long motorcycle trip in the dark with two heavy backpacks. Instead he took me to a fancy resort, negotiated me a discount price there and promised to drive me to the camp the following day. So I enjoyed the evening sitting on my own deck by a pool and slept well in an air-conditioned villa. The next day Arni, his wife, son and friend offered me a delicious Thai lunch with numerous shared dishes, followed by special Vietnamese coffee. During my stay at the camp Arni visited me one day to see around and bring me supplies from a supermarket.



Wednesday, November 5, 2014

The plan is no plans

"It's a mystery to me
We have a greed with which we have agreed
You think you have to want more than you need
Until you have it all you won't be free

Society, you're a crazy breed
I hope you're not lonely without me

When you want more than you have
You think you need
And when you think more than you want
Your thoughts begin to bleed

I think I need to find a bigger place
'Cause when you have more than you think
You need more space

Society, you're a crazy breed
I hope you're not lonely without me
Society, crazy indeed
I hope you're not lonely without me

There's those thinking more or less, less is more
But if less is more how're you keeping score?
Means for every point you make your level drops
Kinda like you're starting from the top, you can't do that

Society, you're a crazy breed
I hope you're not lonely without me
Society, crazy indeed
I hope you're not lonely without me

Society, have mercy on me
I hope you're not angry if I disagree
Society, crazy indeed
I hope you're not lonely without me"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOBlr0OUfD0

This is a quote of my all-time favorite soundtrack from the movie "Into the Wild". Right now its message is especially current for me. Some months ago I quit my secure, well-paying job in order to go after my "real passion". If I just knew what my passion is... When I returned home after traveling for two months, I did not feel like unpacking anything. Now I feel like it is time to get rid of everything, even my beloved apartment. I feel that I may have the courage to let go of society as I know it, at least for a while.

My society emphasizes possessing things, progressing on careers, engaging in trendy activities and being popularly busy. When people like me are thriving for this "standard happiness", we are over-consuming the world's natural resources and encouraging unfair distribution of wealth between industrialized and developing countries. As individuals, how many of us are questioning whether we are truly doing what makes us happy or if we are just going along with the society's norm of happiness?

My society provides me with accessible health care, free education, functioning infrastructure and a variety of other services. I know that even in cases of illness or unemployment I have its safety net to catch me. Because of my society I have become the privileged person, who is able to travel around the world in search of fortunes. After having benefited so much of its offering, is it right to just take off without barely giving back into it? Would it be my duty to live according to its rules - to keep paying high taxes and consuming?

I am spending lots of time on selling my appliances at maximal revenue, on deciding what to store and on determining what to take with me - to the detail of single items such as wine glasses. I am surprised at being so attached to the little property I have. After having being surrounded by everything I owe, it will be annoying not having a full selection of hiking gear or neat outfits for every occasion.

In my backpack I will have climbing stuff, laptop, bikinis, down jacket... and a one-way ticket to Bangkok. Please do not ask about my specific plans or time schedule. Roughly speaking, I will travel around Thailand/Cambodia/Laos/Vietnam/Malaysia doing hiking/climbing/sightseeing/job hunting/professional networking/nothing. Even though I will travel mostly alone, I dearly hope I will not be lonely but run into friendly people to do exciting things with.

PS. Right now I am damn happy!! I am also somewhat nervous, unbelieving and excited, but mostly happy!

(My old Uganda blog got an updated look, since I just kept writing on it. Lacking artistic literary skills, I renamed it as "My General Blog" so that it is no longer restricted to any given places or subjects.)
1,5 days before departure
Farewell afterclimbs