Sunday, February 8, 2026

Herm, an island where time stays still (my ghost story)

Growing up, I was conditioned to thinking that believing in ghosts is silly. Why actually? Just like God, they are spirits, invisible to mortals, sending their signs to the earth through mysterious channels. A few weeks ago I visited an exhibition about ghosts at the Kunstmuseum Basel, where I was definitely getting the chills nearby old ghost catchers' equipment. That inspired me to write down my own ghost story.

Let's jump back to year 2006. It was spring and I was a second year university student, trying to juggle studying, Student Union involvement, competitive synchronized skating and excessive partying. On top of everything, I needed to organize myself a job for the long summer semester break. Through a web portal matching youngsters and seasonal jobs in the UK I got an offer to work at a gift shop. Since it was a UK postal code, I accepted the offer. As June approached and I finally checked where to fly, I found out I was going to spend my summer on Herm, a tiny Channel Island between the UK and France. When I write tiny, I really mean tiny. The distance walking around the whole coastline of the car-free island is just 6km. With its picturesque beaches, cute eateries and an old-style grand hotel, it is a loved summer destination to may local vacationers. 


Completely ignorant of the island's history, I settled in my room upstairs of an old stone building. After a week or so, I had a very vivid dream that kept haunting me also in the daylight, despite being busy selling beach appliances and souvenirs to crowds of people arriving and leaving with the ferry. I still remember the dream of someone, probably a woman, strangling my throat as I was sleeping. It was such a suffocating feeling that I made sure to lock my door every night after (as if dreams cared about locks). As I became better friends with the other youngsters working the various summer jobs on the island, one of them asked where I live. As I pointed out my room in Pinetrees, he casually mentioned, "Ah, the haunted room. Has the ghost visited you yet? An old tale tells, a woman was strangled to death in that room." I stayed in the room, kept locking the door, and avoided any more nightly visitors. Only once, quite a bit later, I was waked up by the full moon that pulled me outside for a walk alone in the middle of the night. 

The house of my ghost

The summer went by; working, running around the island, drinking snake-bytes, gossiping, taking the ferry to Guernsey on my days off. When I flew back to Finland in the autumn, the quiet island life had recovered my student burnout. Quite soon other experiences took over and I hardly thought about Herm anymore. Until last summer in 2025, 19 years later, my intuition called me to visit the island again. Train, Brussels, train, Paris, train, St Malo, ferry, Guernsey, ferry, Herm, and there I was again, this time exhausted from over-performing on my holidays. I had booked a room at the White House hotel, which I had considered so up-scale and fancy when we youngsters had sneaked out the back way to the tennis court (that we were allowed to use when there were no hotel guests). This time I was paying guest, and all I wanted to do was to sit in the beautiful garden and read a book - to immerse the quietness, the still time of the island. 

After taking a long, luxurious bath I felt ready to explore again. First I headed to the gift shops, and to my pleasure everything was almost exactly like before. Even the outdoor baskets for beach balls were the same ones as 19 years ago! Then I let my memory guide me "home from work", up the hill, through an old courtyard, straight to the right building. A woman with a coffee cup was sitting outside on the stairs of my old home. I introduced myself as an old Herm summer worker and we got into talking. Yes, the food at the staff cafeteria was still uneatable, and youngsters still entertained themselves by getting drunk, hooking up with each other and gossiping about it. It turned out she lived exactly in my old room, and she even let me take a look inside, where nothing - including the leaking bath tub shower head - had changed. It was time to ask about the ghost. Luckily she had not been strangled at sleep. But she explained that at a certain spot on the way to Belvoir Bay she always felt the air cooling, like a sudden gust of wind, and something unexplainable present. She did not believe in ghosts, either. 

The gift shop - still the same!

This time around I was more interested in learning about the Herm Island. It was occupied by German forces during the second world war, and used for landing exercises, propaganda film shoots and recreational hunting. It has been the base of monks, artists and wealthy landowners. Of course, my main interest laid on ghosts. Herm indeed has a reputation with myths and legends, including several ghost stories and haunted locations, that are presented in story books and specific Haunted Herm tours. However, I did not find anything about the Pinetrees building or a strangled woman during my search. Maybe it was just a legend orally passed on between seasonal workers. What I still find strange, though, is that I experienced it before hearing anything about it. 

Unfortunately I could spend only two days on Herm. Despite the short stay I time-travelled almost 20 years back to still being a young staff member. It almost felt weird leisurely lounging at the gated hotel area, and I could have expected to be called to work anytime. Ghosts or no ghosts, Herm is a magical place where time stays still and I could feel the presence of those before us, and my old self, more clearly than elsewhere. Or maybe it was just the quietness that invited me to stop, listen and feel. 

Thursday, January 1, 2026

Stock taking on my 2020 goals

What a cliche - time flies! I remember well sitting on the couch in the climbing refugio in El Chorro writing down my 2020 goals (post). And now it is suddenly 5 years later. I have to admit, I currently suffer with a mid-life crisis on many frontiers and look back to those last climbing dirtbagging days with pink glasses of nostalgia. Somehow I feel that the times when I jumped into new and explored - lived! - are over for good. I achieved what I did, missed out on things not reversible anymore, and ended up where I am now to continue until I die (yes, expressed rather dramatically). 

Well, let's see what I planned and where I am now regarding those goals. 

#1 Settle down (in Switzerland) CHECK

By the time Covid hit, I had secured myself a good job at a company I had always wanted to work for. I rented a big, beautiful apartment in Zürich and bought my own furniture, and smoothed through the couple of years of lockdowns. Then I left Switzerland to work in Albania and Laos, and returned to another good job.

I am currently living in picturesque Luzern. What I have realized about integrating into the Swiss life is that it is integrating as being an immigrant. No matter whether I will get the citizenship in a few years, I will always be considered a welcomed foreigner. This is fine for me, as my identity is a Finn living in Switzerland anyways. 

TBD: I wrote I wanted good friends. I had some before I left to work abroad, but since being back I miss close connections nearby my home. It would be lovely to spontaneously invite a good friend over for a glass of wine. As I have learned before, finding close friends cannot be forced but is often a matter of luck, so all I can do is get out where people are and hope for the best.

#2 Grow professionally (among international development) CHECK

I could not be more satisfied. No need to rewrite, as I have a separate post about this. 

TBD: The international development sector is in a deep crises. I am grateful for every extra month I get to keep my job, and then it will be time to move on. 

#3 Climb better (send 7Bs) NO CHECK

This is so sad. The trip where I wrote those goals ended up being my last proper climbing trip. My climbing motivation vanished alongside with Covid and never returned. I still train half-heartedly at the gym, because it is a good way to stay fit, but I no longer have any drive to try hard to reach my limits. 

Looking back, where I thought I had plateaued was actually my peak. That one 7B will forever stay the only one I ever managed, luckily in addition to numerous 7As. Now I project my old warm-ups and barely get up 6As. Even if I had the physical ability to climb somewhat harder, I am too afraid to take falls outdoors. Even writing this makes me feel bitter. I have not lost only a great hobby and a reason to travel, but also a part of my identity and belonging to a global community. 

TBD: In the past years I have climbed a few super easy multipitches and alpine routes. Although I still have many technical skills to learn and my head game is off, maybe easy long routes will be my future piece of cake.


#4 Learn German (Swiss German) CHECK(ish)

I have been lucky to have mostly German speaking jobs, where my progression with the language has been guaranteed. Although I must admit I have gotten rather lazy to keep improving my grammar, I keep picking up new words as I go along. 

However, that applies to German. Swiss German is another story. After taking a beginners course and listening to some podcasts and TV series, I can understand around half of what is being spoken. The combination that I speak German myself (with an accent) and do not yet understand everything makes Swiss speak to me in German, which in turns makes learning Swiss German impossible. 

TBD: Maybe I can convince my new best friends (see goal #1) to speak to me in Swiss German.

Now, let's get back to the midlife crisis. I was actually a bit surprised about how boring my 2020 goals were; all about finding stability and security. That is what I did indeed, set up a "serious life" in Switzerland, but I also ended up living in Albania and Laos, as well as taking the biggest risk of my life by trying to get a child as a single mother. So I cannot really say I lacked changes and challenges during the past 5 years.

I am starting the second half of the 2020 decade childless (post), without any specific passion or anything substantial to improve. I think this is what scares me. For the next 5 years I wish some motivating projects and ambition to thrive in something completely new! I want to find the courage to let go off what I have been or wanted to become, no matter how hard it is, in order to build an interesting, inspiring rest of my life.

To avoid getting stuck, I write some short new 5 year goals. 

#1 Invest in and/or build something sustainable and profitable

Now I have some boring stock, that is not performing as well as I would wish. I want to get more active and secure myself better retirement funds and maybe even some passive income. 

#2 Discover (or re-discover) a sport I am genuinely excited about

I would love to be psyched about training, improving and reaching goals again! No matter whether I would always remain a beginner, the key is trying hard and battling against myself.

#3 Give back to the community

Assuming I will live until around 80 (fingers crossed!), I am now halfway in my life. Until now it has been all about me and my dreams. I have received and realized so much that now it is time to start benefiting also others around me, and finally become less selfish. 

#4 Get out of my comfort zone

Do anything that feels slightly troublesome (even if it involves going to sleep late), uncomfortable and random, if it also feels interesting and intriguing. Nothing new can be discovered by repeating old things.

The last time I dressed up and partied till 5am at a crazy DJ event. More experiences like that, please!